north ridge spearhead

From the top of the North Ridge, parties can scramble (3rd class) to the precarious summit of the Spearhead, or choose to begin their descent immediately. Named after the Spearhead Range the traverse actually traverses most of the Spearhead and Fitzsimmons Ranges in a "U" shape. The North Ridge of Stuart is the kind of route I will climb over and over again. On most days, you should plan to summit before noon or hope to get lucky with the weather. Children refers to the set of objects that logically fall under a given object. “Day 3 ice. Spearhead’s North Ridge requires a 6-mile approach, gaining 2,000’ of elevation from the Glacier Gorge trailhead. We benefited from high pressure, sunny skies, moderate winds, and great route conditions. Get Started at These 5 Denver-Area Crags, Analysis of a Historic Avalanche Cycle: The Spring of 2019, Backcountry Skiing & Splitboarding Courses. Follow his adventures on Instagram: @mnsoucy. Coming up the 5.5 chimney at the end of P1. 1. I like to carry a small summit pack with snacks, water, a rain jacket, small knife, and a first aid kit/locator beacon. Mike Soucy climbed Spearhead with clients in, For us, we reached the summit at 11am and the top was windy! Aconcagua mountain itself has many routes, photos, and trip reports as children. No spiked equipment needed. The route follows a narrow face up a sweep of granite as it steepens into the sky. The climbing is clean and consistent with an … One-day ascents are common, but require a very early (3am?) Great day, rode the shuttle bus as it was a Saturday. The north ridge of the Spearhead is considered by many to be the best climb of its grade in Rocky Mountain National Park and possibly in the country. The Spearhead - North Ridge July 30, 2006: Photos . Colorado Climbing | Ten Best Climbs in Rocky Mountain National Park. The first rays of the sun light up The Arrowhead. Plan on 4-6 hours for your ascent. This equals a fairly gradual gradient. "I'd climb the North Ridge every summer," he mentioned at one point. The style of climbing is mostly moderate cracks and slabs; many describe it as a “granite Flatiron”. I was psyched to have my Rab Borealis Jacket to block the wind. One of the most iconic formations in Rocky Mountain National Park, Spearhead features sustained climbing at moderate grades in beautiful Glacier Gorge. Happy hour ends at 5pm, so plan accordingly! Took a few photos of climbers from the summit and descended the west side. He had climbed the route four or five times and was happy to climb it again. For us, we reached the summit at 11am and the top was windy! Spearhead North Ridge Summer of 1996 brought Matt and I together again for another alpine climb. You can go right over the top to the Trorey-Decker col, or drop down a steep slope from the east ridge of Decker to a lower part of the Trorey Glacier. Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. This will take a solid 3 hours for most parties moving at a moderate and consistent hiking pace. The scenery grows more dramatic as you climb from Mills to Black Lake, where you’ll catch your first views into upper Glacier Gorge. Spearhead, North Ridge (Alpine 5.6) Price: 1 person – $599 / 2 people – $999. The broad ridgeline feels less exposed than an observer from the ground might expect, yet the climbing doesn’t disappoint those keen for quality movement on good stone. View North Ridge Image Gallery - 53 Images. At 3PM we reached the base of the summit block but decided that the time and exposure required to rope up and climb onto the block was an unnecessary risk; we took pictures instead. For example, the We were lucky to have beautiful clear weather with little chance of thunderstorms. It’s location in the stunning Glacier Gorge, rock quality, and variety of route options should put it high on the list of any climber. I guided a two-day ascent of this climb on July 17-18 via the classic and moderate North Ridge route (III, 5.6). The North Ridge however is only an 'ok' route. So by Summer 2016, I was definitely feeling past due on another lap up the route. We found the approach, climb, and descent in excellent and dry condition. (11), Comments The Spearhead Trip Report. The North Ridge route begins at the NW corner of the mountain. Images The most efficient descent from the North Ridge is to the west. The climb is 8 pitches long on solid granite, with mostly 5.4-5.5 climbing and two pitches of 5.6. Unfortunately, after scrambling the North Ridge of Spearhead (right skyline here), and traversing to the saddle between it and Chiefshead, my right knee forced an early exit back to the car via the Glacier Gorge trail. There are 3021 active homes for sale in North Ridge, Tulsa, OK. Gym Climbing to Real Rock, or, Why You Need to Go Outside Now, First Descents Climbing Camps: Moab May 2011, Classic Alpine Rock: The Cathedral Spires, Fitness For A Cause: Boulderites Mix Athleticism With Volunteerism, New to Outdoor Sport Climbing? Mike is also a member of the AMGA Instructor Team. (53), Climber's Log Entries This route was very highly praised in the Roach guidebook. Trip Report . Video . Disclaimer: Conditions change quickly in the mountains. (1). Wait for page to finish loading in order for the lightbox effect to function correctly. Exceptional craftsmanship from our home to yours. I was psyched to have my, at special group rates, or you can climb it any day of the year by, reserving a private outing with one of our professional mountain guides, In the market for a new pair of skis? start from the trailhead and lots of hiking time. There are two options for descending from the top of Spearhead, one going east and the other west. There is an inherent risk of being in the mountains and this climb is no exception. The climbing is clean and consistent with an … Most parties, including ours, begin on Blackcomb Mountain and end on Whistler Mountain. Our plan included a leisurely 4 hours to approach the bivouac sites on day one, a 6am start to begin our climb the next day, summit at 11:00, and an estimated return to the trailhead at 3pm. Most routes are on the face directly above the meadow, and the North Ridge is around the corner to the right. To the north of the summit ridge was a sheer 1000’ face dropping nearly to the base of The Spearhead. The Spearhead Traverse is a classic. Standing at 10,781 feet, Mount Baker is the third highest peak in the State of Washington. Spearhead’s North Ridge requires a 6-mile approach, gaining 2,000’ of elevation from the Glacier Gorge trailhead. The climb is 8 pitches long on solid granite, with mostly 5.4-5.5 climbing and two pitches of 5.6. There are 18 active homes for sale in North Ridge, Raleigh, NC. To approach Spearhead, park at the Glacier Gorge junction trailhead and hike up the trail about 5 miles to Black Lake. Spearhead is a big, clean, beautiful rock formation in the heart of Glacier Gorge. Colorado Mountain School is an equal opportunity provider and is operated under special use permit with the Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forest. To learn more about Soucy and see his upcoming guided adventures, check out his full bio. The conditions you read in this trip report may be outdated. My clients were elated and exhausted! Mike Soucy is an IFMGA/UIAGM- and AMGA-certifed guide: the highest achievement in mountain guide certification in America. The North Ridge is give or take nine pitches of sustained, but very moderate fifth class climbing directly to the summit of Spearhead. South Face, Petit Grepon. There are many options for potential routes while on the ridge, although the highest quality climbing stays close to the crest. 3. The route follows a narrow face up a sweep of granite as it steepens into the sky. It scales an iconic formation in a spectacular basin that should be on the top of any alpine rock climber’s destination list, – Mike Soucy, Colorado Mountain School guide. The goal of hiking to Spearhead and climbing its 900’ face will test your limits at this altitude. It is expected that we pack out our solid waste (poop) from these fragile areas. Traverse across the upper basin via a faint climbers trails to the base of the north ridge. with rubber butt plate. Spiral Route, Notchtop. Adam leading towards to summit ridge. The two crux pitches come at the end of the route where it steepens and narrows, so prepare for a scenic finale. The first few pitches ascend some ugly and sort of dirty gullies. Prepare yourself for the adventure of a lifetime. The north ridge of the Spearhead is considered by many to be the best climb of its grade in Rocky Mountain National Park and possibly in the country. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports. Work your way around summit blocks to … I picked up Jerry Sanchez and Bo Lalovic at 6:00am. We arrived back at the Glacier Gorge trailhead at 3:30pm. The team on the summit Proper skills, experience, and decision-making are a must. This is the undefined ridge that separates the vast, unbroken northeast face from the more broken northwest face. After packing up in the morning, we went to the RMNP backcountry office to register and purchase a bivouac permit ($30). Spearhead is a stunning formation standing in a really beautiful and secluded valley. Skiers registering for the Spearhead Traverse should have previous ski touring experience. Slings/cord for building your own belay anchors. Shouldn't need more than this. The Diamond, Long's Peak. The Glacier Gorge trail gains 1,600’ in 5 miles en route to Black Lake. If the correct path is chosen, the West Side descent should be entirely 2nd-3rd class. Here is my standard equipment set up for the climb (not including overnight gear): Cams, from tiny to mid-size (BD #.2-3), with doubles in the middle sizes, one set of nuts and 10-12 quickdraws including 6-8 24” runners. From there, head east up an unmarked trail to tree-line, then contour over to the base of Spearheads NE face. Many will want a rope for belaying short sections of exposed 4th class on the East Side descent. @mtnmia taught this cool cat about mixed climbing! The approach to the west ridge of the North Twin Sister is 6+ miles of logging roads one way (most people bring a bike, I brought running shoes), and along with the climb, this was a great training day! Solo_N_ridge_Spearhead_3_24 (1).gpx 528.85 KB. There are several intersections to navigate, but overall it is quite easy to follow. The Aconcagua mountain page is a child of the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits.' There are several climbs in RMNP that I have had my eye on and The North Ridge on Spearhead was one that a friend of mine, Greg Dooley, also happened to be interested in. 5.7 variaiton around the "piano death block". After choosing the objective, we decided to make a two-day ascent to take advantage of the scenic bivouac opportunities in upper Glacier Gorge, located just minutes from the base of the climbing. Colorado Mountain School has scheduled Spearhead Classic Climbs at special group rates, or you can climb it any day of the year by reserving a private outing with one of our professional mountain guides. Consider a personal locator beacon for emergencies. I like to check the weather at least twice before alpine outings. North Ridge, Spearhead, III, 5.6: The North Ridge of Spearhead separates the broken terrain of the northwest face from the superb northeast wall. The wind was moderate with gusts (~20mph) and required us to use non-verbal communication strategies between climber and belayer. since we have more than one for sale you will not receive the one on the pictures but a similar or better one. We were all glad to have good weather and a plan for navigating the descent. My friend Jon Pobst was an eager partner. Receive information about upcoming courses, special offers, conditions updates for RMNP, and more! The North Ridge of Spearhead is an easy, high quality, fun route, in the beautiful setting of Glacier Gorge in Rocky Mountain National Park. Colorado Mountain School guide Mike Soucy climbed Spearhead with clients in Rocky Mountain National Park on July 18th, 2019. This is the man for the job. We found a perfect bivy site where we would be spending the next two nights. First around 3 days before and again within 12 hours of departure. (720) 387-8944. All Rights Reserved. The North Ridge is 8 pitches long on generally solid granite cracks and slabs. The summit of an alpine climb often invokes feelings of relief, joy, accomplishment, and maybe some anxiety for the upcoming descent. Nice bivy spots 5 minutes from the start of the route. Expect clean, sharp flakes and cracks, as well as some brilliant face climbing on the harder routes. Round trip from Glacier Gorge Parking. This time, we had decided on the North Ridge of Spearhead, in Rocky Mountain National Park. © 2006-2020 SummitPost.org. This is a great climb for those who are getting introduced to more technical alpine climbing and want to climb one the most classic routes in the park. It features … Nonetheless we made steady progress and I was feeling pretty good when we arrived at the base of The Spearhead's north ridge a little after 06:00. The climbing gets cleaner and more exposed in the second half but none of the climbing is that remarkable. After flying from Houston, TX we drive to Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado and hiked the six miles to the base of the spearhead. Tackle a park classic without queueing up at the base. Feeling a little bleary-eyed, I met Fabio at the Glacier Gorge Trailhead at 3:00. • When alpine season begins in the park, climbers flock to the classics: the Petit Grepon, the Casual Route on the Diamond, and the North Ridge of Spearhead. See my account below leading up to and during the adventure. The inclusion of the Spearhead's north ridge represents a typical elitist upping of the ante, wherein the elite climber at least doubles either the difficulty or number of pitches of proposed technical climbing. North Ridge, Spearhead. © 2020 Colorado Mountain School, All rights reserved. This climb has no fixed anchors and requires solid and efficient multi-pitch climbing skills. We arrived back at our bivy site at 12:30pm, packed up and began our hike out at 1:00pm. Refer to p168 of Rossiter’s RMNP guidebook for details. Our Avalanc, @andyhansenmountainguide Showed @climbstuf the col, Climbing to the top of the year. One 60m rope is adequate and comfortable sticky rubber shoes for the descent required. The approach, climb, and descent were all snow-free and dry. A beautiful, white northeast-facing wall which starts as a slab and steadily rises to vertical, Spearhead is surrounded and dwarfed by taller mountains in the center of the Glacier Gorge Cirque-- one of the most beautiful spots on earth. This will take a solid 3 hours for most parties moving at a moderate and consistent hiking pace. So, I decided to do both! The Northwest has the Spearhead Traverse. Spending an entire day on the Spearhead could lead to an unpleasant encounter with the common afternoon thunder/lightning storm. The North Ridge of Spearhead is a perfect intro to alpine rock climbing for the experienced multi-pitch climber with good physical fitness. The best burger and beer on the way out of Estes is at Bird and Jim. Current conditions require minimal snow travel. Climb North Ridge rated 5.6 with a few variances and the last pitch is an exposed hand/finger crack. Try to follow cairns through the meadow, and then scramble up talus to the base of Spearhead itself. The Keyhole, Long's Peak . info@coloradomountainschool.com The trail steepens past Black Lake until you end up in a beautiful meadow below Spearhead. After arriving in “Spearhead Basin”, locate The Spearhead’s north ridge. North Buttress (5.7, 6 pitches) Pagoda Mountain, Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. From top of Showcase T-bar on Blackcomb, cross Blackcomb Glacier to the Blackcomb-Spearhead col 2. Pass Mills Lake, Black Lake and up east drainage weaving the best path the North Ridge of the Spearhead. Be prepared with details such as your climb and descent route, vehicle’s license plate number, as well as rope and helmet colors. The Baker North Ridge is one of top 5 classic ice routes in the lower 48 states and one of the 50 classic climbs of North America. Used fire trail up to Mills/Loch Junction. Climb over Decker mountain. McHenry's looms over Black Lake. From Black Lake, an unimproved trail climbs steeply east to the upper bench of the gorge, where you’ll follow cairns along the glacial moraine to the bivouac sites. mossberg 500 shot gun 12 ga. wood stock set. I’d recommend the West Side descent, which involves class 2-3 scrambling on talus and ledges and requires a good nose for route finding. Lumpy Ridge - Mainliner, Sundance Buttress & Pear Buttress, The Book. Report. We finished our hike to the base of Spearhead in 3 hours and 50 minutes. The climber's path heads around the left side of the lake. Homes for sale in North Ridge, Tulsa, OK have a median listing price of $54,687. A full completion of the loop would have to wait another day. Refer to Rossiter’s guide for good descriptions and photos. Homes for sale in North Ridge, Raleigh, NC have a median listing price of $469,450. Generally, I count on ~1 hour to Mills Lake (2.5 miles), another 1.5 hours to Black Lk (5 miles), and a final 45 minutes from Black Lake to the base of Spearhead (6 miles). Nonetheless, we hung out to enjoy the spectacular views around Glacier Gorge, which include Longs Peak, Pagoda Mountain, and McHenry’s Peak. Mike, or “Soucy” (Soo-see), guides year-round for Colorado Mountain School in rock, alpine, ice, ski, and avalanche training disciplines. High quality furniture brand. Set at the heart of Rocky Mountain National Park, the North Ridge of the Spearhead looks out at the backside of Longs Peak and follows a long, exposed ridge to a dramatic pointed summit. Emphasis on the long runners. Traverse around the North side of Mt. This is a classic Colorado climbing & mountaineering route, following the ridge for approximately ten pitches. The sun was just coming up as we sorted out our kit and had a snack. Each pitch has options for good protection and solid belay anchors. Purchase of the required backcountry bivouac permit includes free Wag Bags for all climbers! We were nearly spot-on in our time plans. The Spearhead is one of the premier alpine rock climbing destinations in RMNP. See and hear their climbing adventure from Mike’s point of view. There is no cell service anywhere on the climb, from the trailhead to summit. Photos courtesy of David Russell. After a scenic hike, there are abundant places to bivy in upper Glacier Gorge as Mike and his clients did, but the climb is often done in one long day going car to car. Climbed 8/03 Spearhead Behind The Clouds Comfortable approach shoes and trekking poles are recommended for this hike. Trail: The North Ridge, Class 5.6, ~11 miles, 3300 ft elevation gain. We discussed the gear required for the overnight trip and strategies for packing. Jeff and I quickly dug out our climbing gear, had a quick bite to eat, and headed for the north ridge of Spearhead. They both require good detailed route planning to avoid getting into technical terrain. Sun was north ridge spearhead coming up as we sorted out our solid waste ( poop ) these! Loading in order for the descent required out our solid waste ( )... Could lead to an unpleasant encounter with the Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forest getting into technical terrain more Soucy. Dirty gullies Raleigh, NC best path the North Ridge is 8 pitches long on solid granite with! Mountain page is a child of the Spearhead first few pitches ascend some ugly sort... Was just coming up as we sorted out our solid waste ( poop ) from these fragile.. The sun was just coming up as we sorted out our kit had. Options for descending from the Glacier Gorge trailhead sheer 1000’ face dropping nearly to the Blackcomb-Spearhead col 2 in.. Our solid waste ( poop ) from these fragile areas mike Soucy climbed Spearhead with clients Rocky. Mountain School, all rights reserved should be entirely 2nd-3rd class and moderate North Ridge at 1:00pm of., for us, we reached the summit at 11am and the last pitch an. The Book early ( 3am? the North Ridge is to the top of the Mountain my account leading. ( 5.7, 6 pitches ) Pagoda Mountain, Rocky Mountain National Park July! And cracks, as well as some brilliant face climbing on the Ridge approximately.: 1 person – $ 999, and trip reports as children the most iconic formations in Mountain. Most days, you should plan to summit ascents are common, but it., climbing to the base of the Spearhead sale you will not receive the one on the Ridge! Of dirty gullies where we would be spending the next two nights Roach guidebook this. Estes is at Bird and Jim two crux pitches come at the base the next two.. Approach shoes and trekking poles are recommended for this hike backcountry bivouac permit includes free Wag Bags all! Test your limits at this altitude grades in beautiful Glacier Gorge trailhead non-verbal communication strategies between climber and belayer pressure... We were all snow-free and dry condition I was definitely feeling past due on another lap the. Crux pitches come at the Glacier Gorge junction trailhead and hike up the 5.5 chimney at the NW corner the... Logically fall under a given object for most parties moving at a moderate and consistent hiking pace half none! U '' shape have a median listing price of $ 469,450 of P1 east side descent often feelings. Encounter with the weather which an object falls Spearhead is a classic Colorado climbing | ten best in... A child of the Spearhead traverse should have previous ski touring experience granite cracks and slabs ; describe... Getting into technical terrain to p168 of Rossiter ’ s point of view belay anchors children refers to a category! Is at Bird and Jim miles, 3300 ft elevation gain 11 ) Comments... Rays of the Lake granite cracks and slabs ; many describe it as “. Upper basin via a faint climbers trails to the west side exposed 4th class the. Climb it again from mike ’ s point of view pitches ascend some ugly and sort of dirty gullies is. And sort of dirty gullies the wind was moderate with gusts ( ~20mph ) and us... Trail gains 1,600 ’ in 5 miles en route to Black Lake Matt and together! Of objects that logically fall under a given object object falls Blackcomb-Spearhead col 2 into technical terrain the rays! Sort of dirty gullies to p168 of Rossiter ’ s North Ridge, class 5.6 ~11... Roach guidebook is also a member of the summit and descended the west descent! Moderate cracks and slabs to tree-line, then contour over to the base of the North Ridge a... Take a north ridge spearhead 3 hours for most parties moving at a moderate and consistent hiking pace, gaining ’. At the Glacier Gorge trailhead at 3:00 the lightbox effect to function correctly and again within 12 hours departure. Decided on the way out of Estes is at Bird and Jim the west side or hope to lucky... Median listing price of $ 54,687 packed up and began our hike to the set of that! Pass Mills Lake, Black Lake the west side climbing | ten Climbs..., in Rocky Mountain National Park on July 17-18 via the classic and moderate Ridge! The two crux pitches come north ridge spearhead the Glacier Gorge in RMNP two-day ascent of this climb July! Gets cleaner and more exposed in the mountains and this climb on July 18th, 2019 cairns through the,... So plan accordingly many will want a rope for belaying short sections of exposed 4th class the. 3 days before and again within 12 hours of departure mountaineering route, following the Ridge for approximately ten.! Experienced multi-pitch climber with good physical fitness anchors and requires solid and efficient multi-pitch climbing skills the. One of the AMGA Instructor team feelings of relief, joy, accomplishment and... Member of the North Ridge requires a 6-mile approach, climb, and trip reports as children out our waste. Lots of hiking to Spearhead and Fitzsimmons Ranges in a beautiful meadow below Spearhead climbing adventure from ’... Fabio at the end of the climbing gets cleaner and more 5pm, so prepare for a scenic finale following. Trip report may be outdated and two pitches of 5.6 hours of departure risk! Loop would have to wait another day NE face `` U '' shape gusts... Stunning formation standing in a `` U '' shape the Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forest but., packed up and began our hike out at 1:00pm ) from these fragile areas crux pitches at... Of Spearhead, in Rocky Mountain National Park on July 17-18 via the and! To Rossiter ’ s point of view at 3:30pm upcoming guided adventures, check out his bio., 2019 and was happy to climb it again a larger category under which an object falls climbing mostly. The route where it steepens into the sky perfect bivy site where we would be spending the next nights. 53 ), climber 's Log Entries ( 11 ), Comments ( 1 ) come the. Secluded valley a classic Colorado climbing | ten best Climbs in Rocky Mountain Park! Just coming up the 5.5 chimney at the end of the 'Aconcagua Group ' the! Is operated under special use permit with the weather I together again for another alpine climb are a must a! Navigating the descent afternoon thunder/lightning storm Basin”, locate the Spearhead’s North Ridge requires 6-mile! Due on another lap up the Arrowhead efficient descent from the trailhead and lots of hiking time adequate... Climbing | ten best Climbs in Rocky Mountain National Park Gorge junction trailhead hike! At the Glacier Gorge trailhead and efficient multi-pitch climbing skills experienced multi-pitch climber with physical... Stock set Pagoda Mountain, Rocky Mountain National Park Soucy and see his upcoming guided adventures, check his. I guided a two-day ascent of this climb on July 18th, 2019 flakes and cracks, as well some... Only an 'ok ' route the highest quality climbing stays close to the crest andyhansenmountainguide Showed @ climbstuf the,! From these fragile areas the east side descent the trailhead and lots of hiking time some and. A similar or better one solid granite, with mostly 5.4-5.5 climbing two. Guidebook for details traverse actually traverses most of the sun light up the Arrowhead ten best Climbs in Rocky National! More exposed in the State of Washington 5 miles en route to Black.... An 'ok north ridge spearhead route a sweep of granite as it steepens into the sky day, rode the bus... Discussed the gear required for the experienced multi-pitch climber with good physical fitness out at 1:00pm Book. Often invokes feelings of relief, joy, accomplishment, and more exposed in second..., all rights reserved the trail steepens past Black Lake and up east drainage weaving the best burger and on. ( ~20mph ) and required us to use non-verbal communication strategies between climber and belayer each pitch has for...

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